A week off, itchy feet, the world as my oyster. I didn't even have to spin the globe to know where I wanted my finger to land. Tokyo it was. It was big, it was sensory-overload, it was difficult as hell as a coeliac but did I ever love it.
I love sushi. So I essentially survived off nigiri and sashimi the bulk of the week, particularly when I had my friend, who lives locally, show me around and translate on my behalf. The presentation goes above and beyond anything I've ever experienced in what is essentially a casual dining atmosphere. Korean BBQ was also a pleasant surprise as meat and vegetables can be ordered unmarinated and unseasoned (or even just salted) to be grilled on your table's own grate. I've never before enjoyed such a broad selection of mushrooms and the array of meat was decadent. Vinegar used in sushi rice runs the risk of having barley in Japan, which depressingly raises a red flag over everything but I never had an issue with nigiri and sashimi. Just avoid the grilled eel (unagi).
Shōchū was my drink of choice, sweet potato shochu in particular if anyone is taking notes. A distilled beverage that works well on its own on the rocks or with moxers. Mixed with chilled green tea, I found an unexpectedly satisfying cocktail. Kirin make a hard cider (/cidre) that is readily available in most bars.
Staying in an Airbnb apartment granted me access to a kitchen, which was handy for eating in when I wanted. I had packed some gluten free bagels, seed bars, cereal, and pasta from home mostly because I was marathon training even on holiday (Yoyogi Park!) and I snack like a fiend and I dreaded deciphering ingredient labels in the grocery stores. That being said, grocery shopping itself was shockingly expensive in Tokyo anyway, dairy, fruits, and veg in particular.
But I survived. And I frakking loved it.
It certainly does not encapsulate a tick mark beside Japan on the bucket list without venturing outside the city "limits" but with only a week, and the instinct that I would want to come back for more (spoiler: I was right), Tokyo gave me more than enough to keep me busy for the week.
Oh, and bring a bottle of your own gluten-free soy sauce from home. And then return with a bottle of shōchū.